We get a lot of calls for requests to have trees “trimmed”. That can mean a lot of things. Some of the requests are for specific goals, such as removing deadwood or raising the canopy height. Sometimes people are worried about the size of the tree and want it to fit better into the spot it is growing. Here is a simple summary of some of the pruning types that we perform on trees. Some jobs require we do one, two or more types of pruning to accomplish the goal of correctly pruning your tree.
1. Crown Cleaning: This is the most common pruning type we perform. It involves removing dead limbs and branches back to a live growing point on the tree. It is typically done for safety and aesthetics. We typically specify the diameter of the limbs to be removed, such as "all deadwood over 2" diameter". The tree has a special area at the base of the limb called the collar. Dead limbs are cut back to the collar without cutting into the collar. This allows the tree to close the cut quickly and minimize decay in the tree. A pruning cut that runs into the collar and damages it is called a flush cut. A qualified arborist knows how to make proper cuts to preserve this important feature in trees.
2. Crown Elevating or Crown Raising: This is also a very common pruning type. Trees will often develop larger limbs that are too low on a tree for where they are growing. There may be limbs that grow too close to a house, roof, cars and people walking under the tree. These limbs are often healthy limbs so we must be careful not to over elevate a tree. This will make for an unstable tree down the road. Trees elevated too high will not develop a good trunk taper; fat at the bottom tapering as you go up. Canopy height is typically specified, such as 10-12’ of overhead clearance or 8-10’ of clearance over the roof.
3. Crown Reduction: Often a tree's height or spread is too big for the area it is growing in. In other instances, the customer wants the tree to have a specific shape or they may be concerned about the length of a limb. This pruning type is the one that you see done incorrectly most often. Sadly, tree services advertise that they will “top” your tree. Topping a tree is not an acceptable way to deal with a tree's height or spread. It is strictly forbidden in the pruning standards we follow. It promotes severe decay and ruins the tree. Reducing a limb correctly always involves cutting the limb back to a lateral limb big enough to assume the role as the new leader. Limbs should never be “head cut”, which means they are just cut back to an indiscriminate stub. Proper crown reduction will leave a tree looking natural and still looking like a tree. We typically specify the percentage of the canopy we will be reducing, such as “reducing the spread of the lower limbs by “20%”.
4. Crown Thinning: Unfortunately, this pruning type is often overdone. Trees need interior limbs to function properly. The old saying that a tree needs to be thinned out so a bird can fly through it is incorrect. Some species of tree do require some crown thinning from time to time, especially when young, to develop proper branch spacing. This is called structural pruning. It involves the thinning or reduction of weak branches to promote strong branch attachments, establish proper branch spacing, establish lowest permanent branches and a strong central leader.
5. Crown Restoration: Windstorms can often do a great deal of structural damage to a tree. Incorrect pruning, such as tree topping, can also be the cause of tree damage. This type of pruning is designed to begin the process of restoring the canopy of a tree to a normal condition. It often takes several cycles of this type of pruning over a period of years to correct the damage. It is best done by a qualified arborist.
When you need your trees “trimmed” you can always count on the highly trained arborists at ArborVision Tree Care to help you with recommendations for what type of pruning your tree really needs. You can also count on the work being done to the highest of industry standards. For more information just call our office for a consultation.
Our plant health care programs give your trees the best defense against insects and disease. Not only do these treatments ward off dangers for your tree, they also help strengthen a trees' immune system so the tree is able to generate its own defense system.
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1. So about those bugs… Horticultural oil applications are a great way to smother eggs and immature stages of insects before they become a real issue. This application must be done early, however, because springtime is when a tree is at its weakest most vulnerable point as it is focusing all its energy into generating new leaves. Oil treatments are particularly effective on soft body insects such as mites, scales, and aphids.
2. What about disease? Disease applications to protect leaves from blights and leaf spots must be done just as the leaves are coming out. Wait too long and you cannot do anything about the problem. Different species of trees react differently to disease. Certain trees are more susceptible to disease than others. This includes trees like Cherries, Leyland Cypress, Crape Myrtles, and Dogwoods. If nothing is done, the tree will weaken year after year and can eventually die off.
3. Borer Control: Borers are a continual problem in our area because of the many different types of borers. Ambrosia beetles are tiny brown beetles which attack many different types of trees, mainly ornamental and hardwood trees. Emerald Ash Borer is newcomer to our area. It attacks all types of ash trees, and it is swift and deadly, killing a tree in three to five years. Trunk injections are the only way to control this beetle, and it must be done before the beetle gets to the tree. Pine beetles are famous in our area, and they attack all species of pine. The two types we see are southern pine beetle and black turpentine beetle. They attack the bottom thirty feet of the tree. Other types of borers are called round-headed and flat-headed borers. They usually attack stressed hardwood trees. Keeping a tree healthy and vigorous is the best way to control trunk bores. These applications generally need to be done proactively, (before the insect gets into the tree), so plan early to have this done.
4. Fertilization: If you’ve never had your soil tested, it’s a good idea. This is one of the best treatments for your trees and shrubs because it encourages healthy root systems and a continuous vigor throughout the growing season. We find out what the soil is lacking and add soil supplements to remedy the issue. Our specialized mixes are slow release, giving the tree nutrients slowly throughout the growing season. We add other specialized products that help soil retain moisture and allow the plant to be able to get the nutrients it needs. We also must address soil pH problems that restrict nutrients from getting to the plant.
By following these procedures, you give your trees and shrubs the best chance of being and looking the best they can.
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